I've now officially returned from Oaxaca, and I've been drinking tapwater, typing on an ñ-less keyboard, and planning my trip back. It has taken the contrast of Connecticut and the beginning of the relation of two weeks worth of stories for the immense impact of our journey to really sink in. After arriving and unpacking somewhat, I logged into Facebook to find absolutely nothing of interest. While this may hardly seem like a shock to many of its detractors, I (admittedly somewhat of a Facebook junkie prior to the trip) see it as a small sign that my perspective has been altered by these two weeks of experiences we've shared. Still untested are the waters of school and regular everyday life here, but I cannot imagine that that either will seem the same. I don't intend on becoming an ascetic, and I am fully aware that my experience was hardly comparable to real life in Oaxaca, but witnessing and living in a manner other than my own (e.g., wondering if the running water will be working upstairs) has definitely caused me to reevaluate how I live my own life. I'm loath to use the phrase, but I understand what people mean by "life-changing experience."

I'm finishing this entry to the music of a band encountered playing in the Zócolo (the name of which has still not been officially determined) with thousands of photographs to sift through. Though the trip is over, I hope to be able to share some of my favorite photos on the blog.

---

I would like to express my deepest gratitude to J. O'B and Carmen for their leadership, humor, and translations (among countless other things); my fellow travelers for being reliable and enjoyable companions on this adventure; Enid for expertly coordinating every moment of our stay, keeping us to the carefully laid schedule, and providing a local perspective and confidence despite our (mostly) being in an unfamiliar location; Eugene for relating the culture and politics of Oaxaca to us; the Barrera and the Salgiero Triste families for opening their homes so generously to us and providing for us for the duration of our stays; our driver for carrying us safely to and from Benito Juárez, as well as many other less exciting and treacherous destinations; all of the artists, artisans, and craftspeople who demonstrated their crafts and allowed us a look into their process and work; the administrators and teachers of Escuela Morelos in Ocotlán for allowing us into their classrooms to teach; Eliz Olivella for helping us acquaint ourselves with the rather alien environment of Benito Juárez and sharing the amazing story of her library initiative with us; 'Mama Coco,' all the volunteers and children at Casa Hogar: Hijos de la Luna; Flor and our other teachers at Oaxaca Spanish Magic; all the people of Oaxaca, Ocotlán, and Benito Juárez for being so welcoming; Watkinson for making this trip possible; everyone who followed the blog;and of course my mom and dad for making it possible for me to go on this trip and making sure I was as prepared as possible for it. I'm sure there are many people and many things I have neglected to mention, but I truly appreciate everything done by everyone along the way.

¡Salud, dinero y amor a todos, and thank you all for following our travels on the blog!

Muchas Gracias, Enid y Jack

Enid and Jack at Los Danzantes

There is no way to fully thank Enid and Jack Dollard for all they have done to ensure our trip was a smooth running and meaningful as it has been.  Enid planned every detail, exposed us to one cultural experience after another, taught us to navigate the Mexican public transportation system and allowed us to get to make personal connections with individual Oaxacans rather than just be observers.  Personally, knowing she had taken the time to plan such a smooth running trip for the students, allowed Carmen and me to fully engage with the culture of Oaxaca, too.  We also thank Jack for keeping us laughing, sharing his art with us and being such a great sport as Enid spent countless hours away from him to guide us through such an amazing experience!!

If you are inspired by our work and Enid's deep love of Oaxaca, consider donating to Libros Para Pueblos - the organization she helps run and installs libraries around Oaxaca, including the Watkinson funded library in Ocotlan.

Again, as I write this entry less than 12 hours from leaving Oaxaca, thank you to Enid, Jack and the generous people of Oaxaca.  We are all better for having worked and lived with you!!!

Enid,  Jen and Carmen at another amazing lunch

Enid at Casa Hogar

Enid and Anna in the magical complex she and Jack live in

Coco, Carmen and Enid during the party to celebrate a week working with Casa Hogar

The last day in Ocotlan

If we listed all the things we have done in two short weeks, you would never believe it was even possible.  I will let today's (a slow day by our standards) images speak for themselves.

At the school, we are rock stars with kids asking us for our autographs

Head, shoulders, knees and toes

The story is less interesting that the photo suggests..the town took us out for lunch

The reading even in our honor grew to become a city wide festival

Anna reading in Spanish to the crowds

A brief detour to the local church

Marching in the calenda (parade) promoting reading awareness

Still rock stars!!

An impromptu reading during the parade

Fun at the night time town festival

One of the endless bands...I can still hear them playing from my bedroom right now

Tilt-a-whirl Mexican style...guys jump on the ride and spin you

The Trials and Tribulations of Nick Francalangia, Education Rock Star Part two

Okay, so I´m back. Today went quite well, considering that we had suffered a casualty rate 40%. Kate had thrown up, Matt apparently had his voice stolen by a gremlin, and Will Ritter and Shayna were really vauge about their afflictions, suggesting a healthy dose of Montezuma´s Revenge.

Today´s lessons consisted of Phil, John and I reveiwing all the stuff from yesterday in the most creative ways we could think. If I never have to perform--hell, if I never have to hear--"Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes" again, it will be too soon. But what I really wanted to talk about was not the teaching--it was the autographs.

Yeah.
Autographs.

Yesterday, come lunchtime, no sooner did we step out of the classrooms then we were swarmed--swarmed, I tell you-by tiny Mexicans demanding atougraphs. I must have signed over a hundred notebooks, binders, peices of paper, arms, and foreheads in that half hour. It was absurd.

I never want to be famous.

Education is cool

Those who are close to me may recall the times when I have said that I sould make a terrible teacher. I said that I would either not care at all, or that I would be the nastiest, strictest old geezer this side of Snape.
I lied.
I am an awesome teacher.

Today was the first of two days in which we teach English at the local grade school, here in Ocatlan. (That is almost certanly misspelled.) It was moderately grueling. Between the roosters across the street and the apparently nocturnal turkey in the backyard, I don´t think that anyone got a good night´s sleep. But regardless we were all up bright and early, for a 7 o´clock breakfast and a 7:30 pickup. We arrived at the school and split into two five-person groups, each to brave four hours of fifth and sixth grade students.

Long story short, it went swimmingly.

I acted mainly as the group loudspeaker, using sheer volume and unnwarrented enthusiasm to get the kids involved. After the school day eded (at 12:30!) we got lunch, and then visited a wood carvers workshop, where we painted figurines.
I am tired and this is taking forewcer. I will write mre later, maybe.

Efrain Fuentes, master carver

Today, after our first successful teaching day at Escuela Morelos and a delicious meal at "Frida Kahlo's" place in the market, we visited the home/studio of Efrain Fuentes and his wife Silvia. Efrain started carving wood at the age of 7 and exhibited in the United States for the first time at 13. He is part of a third generation of carvers. All three generations are still alive and carving. I believe he is one of eight brothers dedicated to the same profession. Entering that home is like entering a place of beautiful dreams. There are carvings of vivid colors everywhere. These are carvings of animals taken from nature but given a fantastic touch by their unusual positions or the incredible colors in patterns taken from Silvia's imagination or from drawings found in the archeological sites such as Mitla. Efrain takes pride in showing us that many of his carving, of amazing complexity such as the one showing here on the left, were made out of a single piece of wood, without gluing or adding anything to them. This piece happens to be his favorite piece at this time. We try our artistry on carvings previously prepared for us. We dream of imitating the artists. Because it is the year of the rabbit and I was born in such a year, I choose a rabbit that dares me to make him beautiful. This is my second time taking this challenge. Two years ago I made a deer. I was not very proud of it. I tried to imitate patterns that were not my own idea and failed badly. This time I try my own patterns and, even though it's not very beautiful, I like this rabbit better than the deer. I look at Will Ritter's and realize the difference. His is much more creative and he seems to have a steadier hand. Oh well!

Efrain will be in Boston on November. He has a person there in charge of designing his trip. I was talking to him and hoping we will be able to bring him to Watkinson. He would bring with him carvings ready to be painted, like we did today, and show some of his pieces. He could probably give a master class for CAP and the Art and Spanish classes.

Every time I meet one of these amazing artists I dream of having them go to Watkinson and maybe, if I'm lucky to invite them to share a glass of wine at my house. I had the same thought but with less hope when I talked to Vicente Hernandez, the wonderful potter we visited a couple of days ago. He has never traveled out of Oaxaca, I believe, and he would love to visit the United States. I wonder if there is a way to make his dream a reality.

Muchas Gracias, Mis Estudiantes

The kids surprised me with a serenade of Cumpleanos Feliz, a cake and a carved wood frog alebrije.  Yet the greatest gift has been their excitement, willingness to plug along no matter how tired they were and how much they have embraced Oaxaca and its people with open arms.  Muchas Gracias!