I've now officially returned from Oaxaca, and I've been drinking tapwater, typing on an ñ-less keyboard, and planning my trip back. It has taken the contrast of Connecticut and the beginning of the relation of two weeks worth of stories for the immense impact of our journey to really sink in. After arriving and unpacking somewhat, I logged into Facebook to find absolutely nothing of interest. While this may hardly seem like a shock to many of its detractors, I (admittedly somewhat of a Facebook junkie prior to the trip) see it as a small sign that my perspective has been altered by these two weeks of experiences we've shared. Still untested are the waters of school and regular everyday life here, but I cannot imagine that that either will seem the same. I don't intend on becoming an ascetic, and I am fully aware that my experience was hardly comparable to real life in Oaxaca, but witnessing and living in a manner other than my own (e.g., wondering if the running water will be working upstairs) has definitely caused me to reevaluate how I live my own life. I'm loath to use the phrase, but I understand what people mean by "life-changing experience."

I'm finishing this entry to the music of a band encountered playing in the Zócolo (the name of which has still not been officially determined) with thousands of photographs to sift through. Though the trip is over, I hope to be able to share some of my favorite photos on the blog.

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I would like to express my deepest gratitude to J. O'B and Carmen for their leadership, humor, and translations (among countless other things); my fellow travelers for being reliable and enjoyable companions on this adventure; Enid for expertly coordinating every moment of our stay, keeping us to the carefully laid schedule, and providing a local perspective and confidence despite our (mostly) being in an unfamiliar location; Eugene for relating the culture and politics of Oaxaca to us; the Barrera and the Salgiero Triste families for opening their homes so generously to us and providing for us for the duration of our stays; our driver for carrying us safely to and from Benito Juárez, as well as many other less exciting and treacherous destinations; all of the artists, artisans, and craftspeople who demonstrated their crafts and allowed us a look into their process and work; the administrators and teachers of Escuela Morelos in Ocotlán for allowing us into their classrooms to teach; Eliz Olivella for helping us acquaint ourselves with the rather alien environment of Benito Juárez and sharing the amazing story of her library initiative with us; 'Mama Coco,' all the volunteers and children at Casa Hogar: Hijos de la Luna; Flor and our other teachers at Oaxaca Spanish Magic; all the people of Oaxaca, Ocotlán, and Benito Juárez for being so welcoming; Watkinson for making this trip possible; everyone who followed the blog;and of course my mom and dad for making it possible for me to go on this trip and making sure I was as prepared as possible for it. I'm sure there are many people and many things I have neglected to mention, but I truly appreciate everything done by everyone along the way.

¡Salud, dinero y amor a todos, and thank you all for following our travels on the blog!

Muchas Gracias, Enid y Jack

Enid and Jack at Los Danzantes

There is no way to fully thank Enid and Jack Dollard for all they have done to ensure our trip was a smooth running and meaningful as it has been.  Enid planned every detail, exposed us to one cultural experience after another, taught us to navigate the Mexican public transportation system and allowed us to get to make personal connections with individual Oaxacans rather than just be observers.  Personally, knowing she had taken the time to plan such a smooth running trip for the students, allowed Carmen and me to fully engage with the culture of Oaxaca, too.  We also thank Jack for keeping us laughing, sharing his art with us and being such a great sport as Enid spent countless hours away from him to guide us through such an amazing experience!!

If you are inspired by our work and Enid's deep love of Oaxaca, consider donating to Libros Para Pueblos - the organization she helps run and installs libraries around Oaxaca, including the Watkinson funded library in Ocotlan.

Again, as I write this entry less than 12 hours from leaving Oaxaca, thank you to Enid, Jack and the generous people of Oaxaca.  We are all better for having worked and lived with you!!!

Enid,  Jen and Carmen at another amazing lunch

Enid at Casa Hogar

Enid and Anna in the magical complex she and Jack live in

Coco, Carmen and Enid during the party to celebrate a week working with Casa Hogar

The last day in Ocotlan

If we listed all the things we have done in two short weeks, you would never believe it was even possible.  I will let today's (a slow day by our standards) images speak for themselves.

At the school, we are rock stars with kids asking us for our autographs

Head, shoulders, knees and toes

The story is less interesting that the photo suggests..the town took us out for lunch

The reading even in our honor grew to become a city wide festival

Anna reading in Spanish to the crowds

A brief detour to the local church

Marching in the calenda (parade) promoting reading awareness

Still rock stars!!

An impromptu reading during the parade

Fun at the night time town festival

One of the endless bands...I can still hear them playing from my bedroom right now

Tilt-a-whirl Mexican style...guys jump on the ride and spin you

The Trials and Tribulations of Nick Francalangia, Education Rock Star Part two

Okay, so I´m back. Today went quite well, considering that we had suffered a casualty rate 40%. Kate had thrown up, Matt apparently had his voice stolen by a gremlin, and Will Ritter and Shayna were really vauge about their afflictions, suggesting a healthy dose of Montezuma´s Revenge.

Today´s lessons consisted of Phil, John and I reveiwing all the stuff from yesterday in the most creative ways we could think. If I never have to perform--hell, if I never have to hear--"Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes" again, it will be too soon. But what I really wanted to talk about was not the teaching--it was the autographs.

Yeah.
Autographs.

Yesterday, come lunchtime, no sooner did we step out of the classrooms then we were swarmed--swarmed, I tell you-by tiny Mexicans demanding atougraphs. I must have signed over a hundred notebooks, binders, peices of paper, arms, and foreheads in that half hour. It was absurd.

I never want to be famous.

Education is cool

Those who are close to me may recall the times when I have said that I sould make a terrible teacher. I said that I would either not care at all, or that I would be the nastiest, strictest old geezer this side of Snape.
I lied.
I am an awesome teacher.

Today was the first of two days in which we teach English at the local grade school, here in Ocatlan. (That is almost certanly misspelled.) It was moderately grueling. Between the roosters across the street and the apparently nocturnal turkey in the backyard, I don´t think that anyone got a good night´s sleep. But regardless we were all up bright and early, for a 7 o´clock breakfast and a 7:30 pickup. We arrived at the school and split into two five-person groups, each to brave four hours of fifth and sixth grade students.

Long story short, it went swimmingly.

I acted mainly as the group loudspeaker, using sheer volume and unnwarrented enthusiasm to get the kids involved. After the school day eded (at 12:30!) we got lunch, and then visited a wood carvers workshop, where we painted figurines.
I am tired and this is taking forewcer. I will write mre later, maybe.

Efrain Fuentes, master carver

Today, after our first successful teaching day at Escuela Morelos and a delicious meal at "Frida Kahlo's" place in the market, we visited the home/studio of Efrain Fuentes and his wife Silvia. Efrain started carving wood at the age of 7 and exhibited in the United States for the first time at 13. He is part of a third generation of carvers. All three generations are still alive and carving. I believe he is one of eight brothers dedicated to the same profession. Entering that home is like entering a place of beautiful dreams. There are carvings of vivid colors everywhere. These are carvings of animals taken from nature but given a fantastic touch by their unusual positions or the incredible colors in patterns taken from Silvia's imagination or from drawings found in the archeological sites such as Mitla. Efrain takes pride in showing us that many of his carving, of amazing complexity such as the one showing here on the left, were made out of a single piece of wood, without gluing or adding anything to them. This piece happens to be his favorite piece at this time. We try our artistry on carvings previously prepared for us. We dream of imitating the artists. Because it is the year of the rabbit and I was born in such a year, I choose a rabbit that dares me to make him beautiful. This is my second time taking this challenge. Two years ago I made a deer. I was not very proud of it. I tried to imitate patterns that were not my own idea and failed badly. This time I try my own patterns and, even though it's not very beautiful, I like this rabbit better than the deer. I look at Will Ritter's and realize the difference. His is much more creative and he seems to have a steadier hand. Oh well!

Efrain will be in Boston on November. He has a person there in charge of designing his trip. I was talking to him and hoping we will be able to bring him to Watkinson. He would bring with him carvings ready to be painted, like we did today, and show some of his pieces. He could probably give a master class for CAP and the Art and Spanish classes.

Every time I meet one of these amazing artists I dream of having them go to Watkinson and maybe, if I'm lucky to invite them to share a glass of wine at my house. I had the same thought but with less hope when I talked to Vicente Hernandez, the wonderful potter we visited a couple of days ago. He has never traveled out of Oaxaca, I believe, and he would love to visit the United States. I wonder if there is a way to make his dream a reality.

Muchas Gracias, Mis Estudiantes

The kids surprised me with a serenade of Cumpleanos Feliz, a cake and a carved wood frog alebrije.  Yet the greatest gift has been their excitement, willingness to plug along no matter how tired they were and how much they have embraced Oaxaca and its people with open arms.  Muchas Gracias!

another post from john on ms ob's account

happy bday j.o'b !!!!!!!! while mrs neale laughs away the night

plans for the future: work to get enough money to rent a small house in benito juarez, climb up and down the mountain to the ziplines every morning and then work on my game for hours in the atmosphere that nearly killed me and phil,  Come back to the US after a month or so and be as close as I can get to my dream of college basketball.
but besides basketball...
I can't really put into words how much I am still amazed by benito juarez.  I have never been in such a peaceful place, so high in the mountains.  usually when I am going to a new place I get a little anxious about what it will be like and what the people will be like but I somehow knew right away that everything was perfect the moment we started up the mountain.  When I woke up at around 7 the first morning in Benito Juarez, I left the room we were all sleeping in and went to the edge of the mountain and blasted music into my ears.  and even though I knew that the world and everything back home was still under my feet and still with me, it really truly didn't feel like it.  There was something amazing about being in a beautiful place like that; I wanted to stay and sit there for hours, days, months and even years.

For 10 beautiful minutes I was as far away from the ground as I might ever get.  maybe it was the incredibly thin air but up in benito juarez, even though it was just for a night, I felt more at home there than I have ever felt anywhere else.

Nothing else really mattered up there except for the clarity in my head.

"When water is not rippled, it is naturally still.  When a mirror is not clouded it is clear of itself.  There is no such thing as the pursuit of happiness.  Get rid of what muddles you and happiness will spontaneously follow."

happy belated 20th birthday to my big sister Angela (3/17) miss you and I hope you are having fun in college and i got you something really nice

Teaching in Ocotlán

Yesterday morning, after watching the celebration of Benito Juarez´ birthday in Benito Juarez, we made the hour long descent down the mountain into Ocotlán. Benito Juarez was indescribably beautiful, and although some people were feeling less than their best due to the altitude, I think everyone appreciated the cultural differencesand gorgeous views that isolation and elevation provide.

After settling in and eating dinner in our Ocotlán homestay, Señoras Neale and O´brien visited us to go over the lesson plans for today. In around an hour, we´ll be part of an assembly in the primary school here and teaching English lessons to fourth through sixth graders. While I am still not totally confident going into the first lesson, I know that as a group (with some Watkinson teacher supervision) we will have a great experience.

Pa diuxi, Benito Juarez

"Hello, Benito Juarez" in the native language of Zapotec.  Over the past day or so, we visited the weaving village of Teotitlan de Valle where we were given a lesson in dying and making rugs before being able to purchase some. I fell in love with one made from different shades of red (from the cochineal bug- one of my favorites- yes I have favorite bugs) that is covered with frogs.

The larger rugs take a month or more to make

This is from the beginning of the drive

A view from the walk UP to the Zocolo

Then we were off on an hour long drive up the mountains to the tiny, magical village of Benito Juarez (3000meters). Here we were greated by our guide, Luis, a 12 yr old working for the small ecotourism center. He works there three days a week when he is not in school and walks home up the mountain in the dark when the Center closes for the day. Despite how serious he looks in the picture, he was a charming boy with a warm smile whose face lit up when Carmen gave him her flashlight as a gift.  


Luis led us to our lodge where we found comfy beds and amazing views. After lunch of mole, the kids hiked up to the zipline where each took a thrill ride beyond what Six Flags could ever imagine. [Note: Carmen and I did climb far enough to make it to the zipline if we had taken the SHORT cut..but alas we climbed up the long way falling short of the goal of reaching the peak].

Luis, our guide, and Ms OB

A view from the hike

Equipo Watkinson!!! John, Phil, Will R, Nick, Dave and Abelardo (our new friend) formed a basketball team and entered the local basketball tournament. Little did we know that at this elevation with no flat land for a soccer field the entire town seemed to be expert bball players. While I have been sworn not to reveal the score, let's just say Coach D needs to add some high altitude training to the season!! Hearing the crowd cheer more for our guys than there own and hearing "Watkeeeson" blared over the loud speakers in the play by play was a thrill. Our guys nearly didn't make it to dinner due to exhaustion, but found the energy for one more game when Abelardo came to the Comedor to find them.

Playing at 3000meters

Equipo Watkinson- after the game...they are dying!!

The next day, we watched the festivities in the Zocolo (town square) honoring Benito Juarez's birthday. He was a famous Mexican President born locally of Zapotec origin. Passionate speeches by children, traditional dances, a rock-n-roll themed dance by school children and a girls basketball tournament (Watkinson should be recruiting here!!)- it seemed like the whole village came out to celebrate their heritage. After giving out tons a candy, a few books and a puzzle to local children, we headed down the mountain to Ocotlan where we will begin teaching English lessons to 5th and 6th graders in the morning.

The Rock-n-Roll part of the festivities

a letter to ms pelkey

even though i failed miserably in your class two years ago, I have evidence that I have somehow improved in potmaking.  I cannot say the same for my peers who are on the trip, bless their hearts, but after watching a true master of pottery go to work I attempted to make one too.  It didnt turn out too bad and I can probably sell it for millions tomorrow morning at benito juarez.  JOB says we are hiking, ziplining, and watching the benito juarez day celebration.  Although we are sad to leave our homestays, myself in particular (Socorro is having a crazy party right now and Im over here blogging with phil and will), we are all excited to move on and experience more of Mexican culture and history.  Last night we experienced the most famous dances in Oaxacan history including my favorite, La Cañada.  Speaking of dances, phil and i serenaded a mexican club with the most famous and historically magnificent dance, crank that souljaboy.  Right now ms ob is teaching me how to not snap like a freak.  So as you can tell I am learning alot and I am having alot of fun. 

The only sad part is leaving the homestays and not being able to go back and spend more time with the children of Casa Hogar.

We have less than a week left, and although I will be kicking and screaming as señora neale drags me by the hair onto the plane, I am very excited to see all my friends, family, secret admirers and bed back in the states.

This is Phil mitto and i want to say hello to all the followers of this blog and MR. BRACKER

Hasta luego, Casa Hogar

The kids have have a hard time blogging since we return home so late and computer usage is spotty.  BUt I hope these words and picture help convey the how amazing each one of them is...working hard and immersing themselves in Oaxacan culture!!

The mural...the best part-watching the children arrive home to see it completed!!

With heavy hearts we finished the mural at Casa Hogar working tirelessly knowing we only had on day to complete it.  The next day was our last with all the children...one last swimming lesson and then a party for all of them at the hotel.  What amazes me most is how each of the Wat kids, no matter how tired and drained(and they ARE!!), they immediately livened up and found ways to connect with the children.  From Nick reading  book in Spanish (a language he is just learning) to Phil and John's pick up basketball games to Matt, yes still running around with the little girls, we have all connected with them.  A feeling of satisfaction has overcome us all.

Now off to the mountains to Benito Juarez for a day of hiking and a zip-line and to watch the celebration of this famous Mexican President.  Then of to Ocotlan to teach English to 5th and 6th graders!!

1 week of lessons=13 chicos y chicas can swim

Below are other photos from some of the other events and sites we have visited. 

Watching a slideshow of the week at the party

Kate and the chicas playing Photo Booth

Happiness after a week of swimming and play

Up early to watch a flower procession by high school girls-the one that receives the most flower is La Reina De La Dia...a new activity at Wat????

Maestro Alberto con sus estudiantes

Lunch at an organic corn restaurant

Visiting with Vincente Hernandez..a ceramic artist...look for some of his items for sale back at Watkinson

The paper factory

Mastering the Mexican taxi system

Artists we met

Today we went to 3 different art-related locations.

We started at the home of Vicente Hernandez, who creates beautiful pottery, completely by hand. He started by working in a ceramics factory for 25 years so he has the skills down really well, but now he has branched out to creating pieces independently and as artfully as he wants. A lot of us bought some of his pieces from him and his lovely wife, and some of us even tried our hands at the pottery wheel.

Our second destination was a paper factory where we got to see the whole paper-making process. The creators use all natural fibers and materials and make all kinds of cool designs on their paper. There was a gift shop there, too, and we took lots of photos, so you will get to see examples of these too.

Our final destination before lunch was the Art Center, which is located on a breathtaking mountainside and which used to be a factory. The buildings were framed by lush trees and lots of builtin in waterfalls and other waterworks. This is a place where artists can live and teach classes and there are often art exhibits, though we did not see one this time. Ms. Neale loved this location and I am pretty sure she would be very happy to be the Spanish-teaching-many-talented-artist-in-residence there. Ms. OB would thrive too, with all the lush nature around her that she could easily translate into art in a very organized, fun way.

After lunch we had some time to ourselves. Some of us went to the Zocolo, including its the market, one of my absolute favorite places, and some of us stayed at our homestays to rest. Tomorrow morning we leave for Benito Jaurez and will have to say goodbye to our wonderful, welcoming, fun homestay families. But we can keep in contact over email!

A day of food, shopping and children....

We started the day on shopping trip to buy paint and supplies to paint a mural at Casa Hogar next to this basketball court.  By the end of the day we had mixed our own custom shade of azul (blue) and painted the background of what will become a city to forest mural the kids designed.  Tomorrow, we will complete the mural after another shopping trip to buy even more paint brushes.

Wall before the mural....more to come

Then it was off to Spanish classes were we mastered yet more vocab and tenses and explaining all Watkinson´s classes and electives (especial the History of Japan (timely) and 1968).  Our instructor Alberto was amazed at the offerings the students had available to them.

With an extra hour before lunch, we shopped in a local market buying gifts for our friend´s, families and ourselves.  Most importantly, Carmen and I went on a shopping spree buying everything we could find like jewelry and kitchenware to sell back at school to continue supporting the poeple of Oaxaca who have stolen our hearts with their generosity, patience and welcoming nature.  Look for great items to be sold back at Watkinson this Spring!!!

Then it was off the Los Danzantes, one of the nicest restaurants in Oaxaca that is named after the dancers seen in the carvings at Monte Alban.  But we now know thanks to our guide Eugene that the dancers are actually medical carvings used to explain ailments, childbirth and physical characteristics.  In the museum at Monte Alban, I kept quizzing the kids on various bones of the body and such...they knew them all!!

Back to the food.  Here are some photos of the great meal we all shared..

The bread basket

The tostada appetizer and the guava and papaya water

Chili stuffed with fish, pineapple salsa and rice

Then it was off to the pool for another day of swimming lessons with the chilren from Casa Hogar who are now swimming like experts with only three days in a pool!!  Then we took a bus to Casa Hogar for playtime and painting.  The reality that we only have one more day there was beginning to hit the kids.  It just seems like we have not have had enough time there. We played baseball, ran a "beauty shop", blew millions of bubbles and played an intense game of Memory with the 2 year olds.  Right as we were leaving, the little girl I have bonded with (and is a master Memory player) ran out clutching each of us by the legs as if to say that she could not let us go -until tomorrow. It was a sweet, yet heartbreaking moment.  But  at least we have tomorrow.

Toppings for the tacos

Carving the al pastor



We are becoming experts in guacamole



Nick and the many, many ice cream options

Another bus then took us back to the Zocolo to watch the Wednesday night Danzon or dance with an band for anyone who wanted to take part in the traditional dances.  We had a great dinner at Taco Inn  which much more authentic than it sounds.  Tacos al pastor for all and then another round of nieves (ice cream).  I tried the mango with chili which was....ok?  Without thinking I threw it out.  We have been encouraging the kids to save their leftovers and get a doggy bags for some of the endless homeless people we encounter-so throwing out a perfectly good ice cream cone was a huge mistake.  A little while later when I was sitting in the square, a little 5 yr old girl came up to us and asked us for ice cream.  Here it was-my opportunity to pay back the universe!! So I took her over to the shop and asked her what flavor she wanted.  Of the dozens and dozens of flavors available, she asked for mango with chili.  It was like fate brought her to me.  Needless to say, I bought her the biggest cone dipped in chocolate and sprinkles I could.  With a smile, she simply "Gracias".

The lovely lady who sold us many of the pieces of jewelry you can buy this Spring